Since the tabletop would end up being 120″ x 42″, I had to plan out how I was going to glue it up. I started out by glueing the pieces end to end to get to the length required. Once these were done, I trued-up the widths on the table saw.
With each long length ready, I decided to work my way up to the entire width. I started by gluing in pairs subsequent lengths. With these all together, I then set up to glue the entire top together. For the most part, this was a success. However, I had some instances of misalignment due to not being careful with my biscuit-slot cuts. Some aggressive sanding after-the-fact would help solve those.
After the tabletop was sanded, I moved on to building up the edges. The design called for the trimmed edges o be flipped along the cutline so that the grain would read as a mirror of the other. I started by trimming to length and then to width. I then cut a series of biscuit slots along the edge to help with alignment and clamped the edges for glue-up.
With the edges glued-up, I moved on to rounding over the corners and edges. Then, in order to align the top properly with the base, flipped the top over so I could accurately mark the locations of the built-up cross pieces to properly align with the base cross rails.
You will notice that base already has the final finish on it in the following picture. I had actually completed the finish-out of the base prior to fabricating the tabletop. The finish-out of the entire table is detailed in the subsequent post in this series.
After all of this complete, I performed the final sanding (which is not easy for a 10′ table!) and got it ready for the finish.
You can see the steps involved to complete the table in Part 4.