Once again, I failed to document the next step with photos. The design is very clean and minimal. I did not want fasteners or hinges visible. So I went back out to the great, wide yonder known as the internet to find an invisible hinge. I really did not want to use european hinges, but was beginning to think I would have to until I stumbled across the soss hinge. And, I was able to get it in black! And to make my life a bit easier, I also purchased a jig to help make the mortise cuts for the hinge.
After that was all done, I did one last test assembly prior to glue up to make sure everything was good.
Since I wanted to have a finish where the grain was visible, I wanted to make sure that glue squeeze out was abated as much as possible so not to adversely affect the application of the finish at later steps. In order to combat that, I took the steps to tape off all the joints so that any glue that squeezed out was caught by the tape. I did leave one gaping hole, though. I neglected to think about the affects of gravity and only taped the joints. So glue was able to run down the vertical surfaces that did not have tape. It was not too difficult to deal with after since it was not in the corners, but lesson learned.
Then the dance of getting all the clamps in place before the glue set. I ended up using a slower set glue for this process to give myself some room.
Once everything was set and out of the clamps, I was able to set the console into its ultimate resting place. Soon after, I discovered yet another oversight with my design. The idea for the side cubbies was to act as display spaces for art pieces. Well, I just created two big shadow boxes. Anything put in there would be in the dark. What to do, what to do? Oh yeah, one of my favorite things, LED’s!
I figured I could create some recesses for some LED strips and cover them with an acrylic lens to help diffuse the light so it was more even in the box. This would have been a lot easier if I had thought of it before the box was assembled, because I had to conceal the wire leads. I ended up routing some troughs to act as a raceway which would route the wiring into the drawer cavity, where it could then run on the surface and out the back for the plug. I also wanted some control of the light level, but didn’t want to add a bulky dimmer. So I found a neat touch control that would work great.
Check out Part 4 which chronicles the finish process.