FCB1010 Phantom Power Mod
Posted on June 26, 2005 - Updated on June 29, 2017
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I found a phantom-power mod on the Yahoo FCB1010 User Group that allowed the FCB1010 to be powered through the MIDI cable so you did not need the power cable supplied with the FCB1010. I went with option of installing a switch that allowed me to still use the supplied power cable if I so desired. You can download the full instructions for the phantom power mod from the Yahoo User Group.

I started out by taking the back off of the FCB1010 to reveal the circuits. I then drilled a 1/4″ hole in the back of the housing for my DPDT mini switch (for switching from phantom to supplied power).

Before I installed the switch I soldered lead wires onto each post with bullet style quick connectors on each end to make the splice connections necessary in the FCB1010 easier to manage. I then cut the two yellow lead wires that power the FCB1010 from the internal transformer and installed the matching bullet connectors on the end of each wire.

Since MIDI only uses 3 of the 5 wires in the cable, the phantom power will be supplied by the wires of pins 1 and 5 of the connector. I then had to solder two leads onto the MIDI IN connector inside the FCB1010. These two wires had the same bullet connectors installed onto the ends of the wires for connection to the mini switch. I tested all of the connections and sealed the FCB1010 back up.

At the rack end of the MIDI cable, I decided to install a MIDI jack that allowed for easy hook-up and supplied the power to the MIDI cable. I had some spare space on the front of the rack mount for my AKG SR40 Diversity Receiver. I decided to install my MIDI jack here. I drilled the hole for the MIDI jack along with a hole for the 1/4″ stereo phono jack (explained below) through the rack mount. I took a 3-Foot MIDI cable I had bought on eBay and cut one end off and stripped the end of the wires. Once I had figured out which wires feed each pin on the MIDI connector, I soldered these wires to the MIDI jack.

To supply the phantom power, I purchased a 10VDC power adaptor. I installed a matching power jack onto the MIDI jack, connecting the power leads to the 1 and 5 pins of the jack. Once the power jack was attached to the MIDI jack, I installed it onto the wireless rack mount and installed it back into my rack. I plugged in the power adaptor to my Furman power conditioner and to the jack attached to the MIDI jack.

The 1/4″ Phono Stereo jack is used to change the CTL1/2 settings of my GT-Pro. Originally I had intended to control all of the GT-Pro functions via MIDI. But I soon discovered that the FCB1010 could not send MIDI instructions with a momentary press of a foot pedal. So I then decided that since the relay switches of the FCB1010 where momentary, I setup the FCB1010 pedals 5 and 10 to control the relay switches 1 and 2, respectively. I then used a 1/4″ phono connector from each relay switch jack on the back of the FCB1010 to the CTL input jacks of the GT-Pro.

While the relay switches where technically momentary, they were not the type of momentary I really needed. What I needed is for the relay switch to stay closed while the pedal was depressed and open the switch once the pedal was released. The FCB1010 only momentarily closed the relay switch after the pedal was released. While I could still use this, I wanted the ability to control the GT-Pro as intended.

I had a couple left over FS-5U foot switches that I had used to control my BOSS GT-3. Since these foot switches give me the control I desired, I decided to use them in conjecture with my FCB1010 to control the GT-Pro. I created a companion cable for my MIDI cable. This cable has two 1/4″ mono phono connectors on one end and a single 1/4″ stereo phono connector on the other end. I taped this companion cable to my midi cable at 6″ intervals. What I ended up with is basically one cable with the desired connectors on each end.

At the rack end, I installed the 1/4″ stereo phono jack to accept the 1/4″ stereo phono connector from my new cable. On the backside of the jack, I ran a cable terminated with another 1/4″ phono stereo connector that plugs into the GT-Pro CTL1/2 jack.

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